Comments on: To Prime or Not to Prime? The Online Resource for the Painting Industry Sat, 24 Jun 2017 23:12:44 +0000 hourly 1 By: Art Morehead Sat, 24 Jun 2017 23:12:44 +0000 I dont think I have ever seen this happen I would take it back as something doesnt sound right to me. I for one dont use the cheap stuff just because things like this happen with the big box stores

By: Sue Williams Sat, 24 Jun 2017 22:03:59 +0000 I bought Behr Premium Plus, primer and satin paint in one. I let one coat dry and then lightly sanded for a second coat. And the color changed from a melon or caramel color to a bright yellow. Why did sanding change its color? Will this stop as the paint ages or will it always turn yellow when it gets rubbed?

By: Arthur Art-Faux Designs Wed, 16 Mar 2016 14:08:49 +0000 Yes Barry you should use a good primer and most likely you’re probably correct about the oil prime as this is what was used back then However in the majority of the homes painted that long ago the paint contained “lead” and now are required to have a special removal and disposal process which can be even more work unfortunately so be sure to keep that in mind the next time you do this. Yes you should use a “bonding primer” if you are going back to acrylic base paint. I have always done it as a rule and can save you a ton of work later on

By: Barry Payne Wed, 16 Mar 2016 02:29:54 +0000 I have a question for you. I am renovating an older home (built 1940) and have peeling paint on ceiling in master bedroom, and all over in original bath. I have scraped the loose paint and patch which encompasses about 1/3 of the ceiling in the bedroom. To me, it appears that at some point, a latex was applied directly over an oil base some time ago – many coats over peeling level which, in some cases, is going back to original plaster surface. Question: Should I use a bonding primer, THEN re-texture the patches, prime again, then paint? I want to do it right … and not do it over.

By: Arthur Art-Faux Designs Sat, 26 Dec 2015 22:40:58 +0000 It’s always best to prime unless using a floor enamel (oil) or an exterior acrylic stain

By: Scott Burt Sat, 26 Dec 2015 21:54:12 +0000 Hi Tom, these are great questions. The industry has pretty much shifted in the past 5-10 years. Or, we should say the manufacturers have, which (long story short) has been driven by epa regs. Linseed oil based products went out a while ago and were replaced by synthetic oils – the alkyd era. And even that is quickly being ushered out. All that said, the performance of the old generation oils were a two edged sword. Penetrating the wood was great for protection from the outside in, but caused a lot of failures from the inside out. Because they didn’t breathe, moisture escaping the wall cavities of homes were able to push primer and paint right out of wood from the backside (and of course, no one was backpriming in those days). This resulted in older homes peeling right down to bare wood on pretty large scales. Oils also had a history of becoming brittle and inflexible over time. On the bright side, latex primers are flexible and while they don’t penetrate like oils, the good ones do have extremely good adhesion qualities, and they breathe. I made the switch years ago and have not looked back (and I had used oils all my life). The primary reason that latex has developed to work better than oil is because manufacturers stopped investing R&D funds into oil based products years ago and put those resources into creating latexes that can perform at that level…just in a different way. And you are correct, it is chemistry.

By: Tom Norman Sat, 26 Dec 2015 20:52:23 +0000 I’m concerned about one thing:
How do I get the same incredible results I got 30 years ago on my 100 year old house. How can a water based primer do the same job?

Here is what I did: I sanded to bare wood, then primed and painted. (3 stories up). I have not repainted most of it since then: incredible.

I painted with an oil-based primer that included linseed oil. It was a product of Brodugan in St. Louis Missouri.

They later were purchased then by Sherwin-Williams. I talked with Bob Brod about 5 years later. I told him my results with the old standby of linseed oil added primer. He told me they had used linseed oil in their best primers but it had been disconnect discontinued by Sherwin-Williams (probably for cost as I recall.)

I was told at the time 48 hours for drying oil was important. Because it was drawn into the dry wood and prevented it from cracking.

Now I have another house and have sanded to bare wood the five to twelve inch 105 year old trim. I’m using ELMERS WOOD FILLER MAX to fill in the cracks and crevices.

But no where has anyone said anything to me about oil based primer with linseed oil added except negative reviews and 5 ounces max added per gallon if used.

. So my question is, don’t I have to have oil which soaks into and conditions the wood as it dries, as a conditioning undercoat even as one uses oil on leather boots to condition before putting a top coat?

Doesn’t the wood need something to not just seal it but condition and protect its first layer of surface cellulose grain to not just cover it with “plastic like latex” but to seal it to last for years?

(Linseed oil used to be used in window sash putty and it dried as hard as wood).

I am nervous that all my work is going to set me up for having to repaint every 7 to ten years.

So I sealed with the oil primer with linseed oil added and then applied the latex top coat 30 years ago?

My philosophy was to use the best paint possible. How has Latex developed to treat wood better than oil?

I understand the cost and convenience advantages of fast dry latex primer to save time but not the paint chemistry breakthroughs.

So it doesn’t ring true to me.

After priming per above …then I applied the one coat latex. (FYI:The latex I used was called one coat Super hide top coat of BROD DUGAN.)

By: mikey jones Thu, 29 Oct 2015 14:29:45 +0000 Ultra is a great paint but not meant to prime everything, Any bare wood that is susceptible to moisture you must use a 123 type oil product then cover with ultra, all other previously painted surfaces and preprimed surfaces use ultra on. the results will be amazing. unfortunately the doofus writing this article could not articulate that.

By: Eusevio Fri, 28 Aug 2015 19:16:40 +0000 I agree.

By: Mike Tue, 16 Jun 2015 20:52:32 +0000 Hawaiian Mike here;
I thought I must have been off-base when I first thought of it, but turns out I’m not the only one who has thought of using a different approach to priming Drywall. This guy sounds like he’s done a ton of research, and makes a tremendous case for using Gardz as the prime. Here’s the link:
I’m gonna try this in the next day or two on a new job. BTW This guy is pretty amazing. Paints like a demon; fast, accurate, poetry in motion. Wish I could paint like that!